A Culinary Cohort And A Unique Approach To Help A Struggling Population, This West Virginia Morning

On this West Virginia Morning, a neighboring state tries a unique but controversial approach to address its homeless population, and a West Virginia celebrity chef helps launch a culinary training program for those in recovery or looking for a reset on life.

On this West Virginia Morning, a neighboring state tries a unique but controversial approach to address its homeless population, and a West Virginia celebrity chef helps launch a culinary training program for those in recovery or looking for a reset on life. 

West Virginia Morning is a production of West Virginia Public Broadcasting, which is solely responsible for its content. 

Support for our news bureaus comes from Shepherd University and Marshall University School of Journalism and Mass Communications.

Appalachia Health News is a project of West Virginia Public Broadcasting with support from Marshall Health.

West Virginia Morning is produced with help from Bill Lynch, Briana Heaney, Caelan Bailey, Chris Schulz, Curtis Tate, Emily Rice, Eric Douglas, Jack Walker, Liz McCormick, Maria Young and Randy Yohe.

Eric Douglas is our news director. Teresa Wills is our host. Maria Young produced this episode.

Listen to West Virginia Morning weekdays at 7:43 a.m. on WVPB Radio or subscribe to the podcast and never miss an episode. #WVMorning

A Chef Shares W.Va. Memories And Visiting A Cat Cafe, Inside Appalachia

This week on Inside Appalachia, The chef of an award-winning Asheville restaurant says he was shaped by memories of growing up in West Virginia. The Seeing Hand Association brings together people who are visually impaired to learn the craft of chair caning. And a West Virginia community grapples with its population of feral cats.

The chef of an award-winning Asheville restaurant says he was shaped by memories of growing up in West Virginia. 

The Seeing Hand Association brings together people who are visually impaired to learn the craft of chair caning.

And a West Virginia community grapples with its population of feral cats.

You’ll hear these stories and more this week, Inside Appalachia.

In This Episode:


Appalachian Memories Inspire Chef

Chef William Dissen at his home in Asheville, North Carolina.

Photo Credit: Johnny Autry

Chef William Dissen’s memories are seasoned with the flavors of West Virginia’s mountains. He’s now taking some of those memories and turning them into award-winning cuisine at his James Beard Award-nominated restaurant, The Market Place, in Asheville.

Folkways Reporter Margaret McLeod Leef spoke with Dissen while he was in Charleston with his debut cookbook, Thoughtful Cooking.

Mending With Seeing Hands 

Jeannine Schmitt weaves a new seat onto an old hand caned chair.

Photo Credit: Clara Haizlett/West Virginia Public Broadcasting

A lot of folks in Appalachia grew up with caned chairs in the house, but you don’t see them as much as you used to. Cane breaks down over time and needs to be replaced. Few people know how to do that. 

At a workshop in Wheeling, West Virginia, a community of skilled workers repair old chairs – and show that not everything that looks broken has to be thrown out.

Folkways Reporter Clara Haizlett brings us the story. 

Clara also produced a short video about the people at Seeing Hand. That video, and a few others, will appear on West Virginia Public Broadcasting as part of an Inside Appalachia television special. The episode premiers at 8 p.m. on Thanksgiving on WVPB and will be available to watch online starting Nov. 25. 

A Cozy Cafe For Cats

Many cats at Give Purrs A Chance come from overrun shelters and animal rescues in southern West Virginia.

Photo Credit: Jack Walker/West Virginia Public Broadcasting

West Virginia is home to more than 100,000 stray cats. Most aren’t spayed or neutered, which only increases the problem of overpopulation.

Pet advocates say subsidies for the procedure and pop-up clinics can help, but as WVPB’s Jack Walker reports, so can creative efforts to find cats a home.

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Our theme music is by Matt Jackfert. Other music this week was provided by Christian Lopez, Harvey & Copeland, Todd Burge, Dinosaur Burps, Paul Loomis and Blue Dot Sessions.

Bill Lynch is our producer. Zander Aloi is our associate producer. Our executive producer is Eric Douglas. Kelley Libby is our editor. Our audio mixer is Patrick Stephens. We had help this week from folkways editor Chris Julin.

You can send us an email: InsideAppalachia@wvpublic.org.

You can find us on Instagram and Twitter/X @InAppalachia. Or here on Facebook.

Sign-up for the Inside Appalachia Newsletter!

Inside Appalachia is a production of West Virginia Public Broadcasting.

W.Va. Chef Wins Elite National Culinary Award

West Virginia Chef Paul Smith was named the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: Southeast Monday night at the awards ceremony in Chicago.

Updated on Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 5 p.m.

West Virginia Chef Paul Smith was named the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: Southeast Monday night at the awards ceremony in Chicago.

Smith, who last year became the foundation’s first ever finalist from West Virginia, took top honors in this year’s star-studded ceremony at the Lyric Opera.

“Two words that have never been mentioned here before: West Virginia,” Smith said in his acceptance speech.

Chef Paul Smith accepts the 2024 James Beard Award for the southeast. He is the first person from West Virginia to do so.

Photo Credit: Maria Young/West Virginia Public Broadcasting.

A crowd of hundreds watching a live stream of the event at Charleston’s Capitol Market erupted in prolonged cheers as a presenter told the audience, “He grew up in West Virginia literally standing on a milk crate stirring his grandfather’s Sunday sauce. Today at his restaurant, he tells the Appalachian food story. Paul Smith is … he’s a hometown hero, he really is.”

Tourism Secretary Chelsea Ruby, in the Capitol Market crowd, said the win puts West Virginia on the map as a culinary destination. 

“It puts us on the map. When you think about culinary destinations, this absolutely puts us on the map,” Ruby said. “It’s one more thing that gives people at a national level the idea that West Virginia is a destination.”

Gov. Jim Justice said in a Facebook post that the award “attracts visitors from around the world to experience the taste of Almost Heaven.” 

The Southeast category in which Smith won includes Georgia, Kentucky, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee and West Virginia.

**Editor’s Note: This story was updated to include comments from Tourism Secretary Chelsea Ruby and Gov. Jim Justice.

‘Churched-Up Soup Beans’ And A New Book From A Climate Scientist, This West Virginia Morning

On this West Virginia Morning, the owner and head chef at the Northern Panhandle’s Vagabond Kitchen Matt Welsch spoke with Randy Yohe about his plans to enhance the dining experience at state park lodge restaurants.  

On this West Virginia Morning, have you ever had “churched-up soup beans?” West Virginia State Parks has hired Wheeling’s Matt Welsch as its new executive chef, who has this Appalachian dish on his menu. 

The owner and head chef at the Northern Panhandle’s Vagabond Kitchen spoke with Randy Yohe about his plans to enhance the dining experience at state park lodge restaurants.   

Also, in this show, we listen to the latest story from The Allegheny Front. Here’s their latest story – an interview with University of Pennsylvania climate scientist Michael Mann about his new book.

West Virginia Morning is a production of West Virginia Public Broadcasting which is solely responsible for its content.

Support for our news bureaus comes from Shepherd University.

Caroline MacGregor produced this episode.

Listen to West Virginia Morning weekdays at 7:43 a.m. on WVPB Radio or subscribe to the podcast and never miss an episode. #WVMorning

West Virginia Chef Helps Those In Recovery Through Food

If you had told Scott Anderson 20 years ago he would be hip deep in giving back to the community as a hospitality chef for a local recovery center, he would have said you were crazy.

However, when you walk through the front doors of the newly opening Mountaineer Recovery Center in Kearneysville and slip back into the stainless steel kitchen, the aroma of freshly cooked food, the sound of laughter and the towering figure of Anderson welcome you to one of the more unique recovery therapies provided by the center.

Anderson said he started cooking when he was a teen in the 1980s, when his grandmother and great grandmother taught him to cook by feel, taste and smell versus cooking by recipe.

“And then my mom kind of allowed that to blossom by leaving the kitchen so I could do it, and she could just come by when the dinner bell was rung,” Anderson laughed. “Learning that way, cooking became a huge part of my life. I started my professional cooking career, we could say, at The Public House restaurant in New Jersey.”

Anderson said the high production nature of the bed and breakfast forced him to learn quickly and hone his multitasking skills. Ultimately, the demands of the position led to Anderson feeling burnt out, and he entered academia, where he earned his bachelor’s and master’s in history and political science.

With real-world issues suddenly very real to the fresh graduate, Anderson said he moved to Shepherdstown, where his parents had settled, and began working at the Canterbury Shepherdstown nursing home.

“I worked there for two years, and that’s where I first really thought about how cool it is to help people and cook at the same time,” Anderson said. “I had wanted to go into history…but all these positions kept opening in food service for me, so I ended up getting hired on as a catering employee at Shepherd University in 1990, and I was with them until Jan. of 2017, where I went from assistant catering employee to assistant director of the dining operations.”

Anderson said while his university position taught him a lot, he couldn’t turn down the opportunity that arose to be more involved with the community by teaching people how to cook. West Virginia University Medicine hired Anderson as adjunct faculty, where he’s the only person in the program who is not a doctor, though he said he is often called the “food doctor.”

In the system, Anderson said his desire to give back to the community as much as possible was satiated as he works with WVU Med Chefs, visiting food pantries, town halls, facilities like the recovery center and farmers markets to host classes teaching the community to cook for themselves healthily, on a budget and ultimately stop “driving around to the second window.”

Anderson said he still felt he could do more and ultimately became part owner of the Community Garden Market in Shepherdstown.

Years in the making and almost by a grander design, according to Anderson, Jonathan Hartiens, CEO of Mountaineer Recovery Center, spoke with Anderson in 2018 about joining the center after Anderson’s father recommended him to Hartiens.

Anderson began his full-time position with the recovery center in October, still maintaining his position with the community garden market and WVU Medicine part time.

“I enjoy being able to take a menu, a food item or leftovers and show people how to take odds and ends and turn it into a meal,” Anderson said. “Within a couple weeks, we were able to get the patients into a program called 3.5 Extended, which allows them to come into the kitchen here at Mountaineer Recovery four days a week for an hour a day where we do cooking skills, knife skills, sanitation and much more.”

In addition to teaching basic cooking skills, Anderson’s class allows in-patients to acquire their serve safe food handlers training certificate, allowing them to have a nationally recognized certificate that can be used to get a job once patients leave the facility.

“People know what they want to do or eat, but they don’t have their mind open to how they can do it, so I’m the conduit of this is what you’d like to be and how do I get you there with food and your medicines and your therapy, tying it all together as one,” Anderson said. “As I look back, from restaurants, to Med Chefs, to the market, if you were to tell me 20 years ago I would be running a hospitality center at a recovery clinic, I wouldn’t have believed you, but each step of the way, I can see how God was preparing me and taking me little steps to where I am now.”

Anderson said he would’ve thought he would be cooking in a restaurant or owning his own, but he said it seemed he kept getting more into teaching and doors would open to help people in need.

“It gives back to people, because food is medicine,” Anderson said. “It makes a difference because you can see when the light clicks, the sense of accomplishment that they have is great. I want it to be fun and infectious, not stuffy and pretentious. I don’t need to teach them to do a fancy, extravagant meal, but they’d like to know how to cook veggies, how to make sure food comes out at the same time and how to do it all on a budget. And that’s the idea, we’re trying to tie it up and they know exactly what to do with what they have. Its cooking, budgeting and making it happen.”

According to Anderson, his cooking classes are not mandatory, but encouraged, and the program is the first of its kind he’s seen in a recovery center, stating he’d been to similar facilities that had the means but had simply never thought to offer it as another way of helping people with addictions recover. While Anderson said his work giving back to those in need through food is something he feels grateful for, he is not the only one impacted by the class.

Anderson said he’d been thanked by multiple graduating students, with one writing him a two-page letter of appreciation, stating how this program had allowed them to feel in control again and like they had something to focus on instead of their addictions.

“Twenty years ago, I wouldn’t have thought this… you get up in the morning, you’re excited to go to work. It’s a good thing they’re here getting recovery and that we can spend time with them and help them continue that recovery by giving them just another litter edge up when they are on their own again,” Anderson said.

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