Harpers Ferry Reaches New Heights Four Years After Pandemic

Harpers Ferry is a historic West Virginia city and international tourist hub. But four years ago the national park and surrounding town were devastated by the COVID-19 pandemic.

Tourists from around the world visit Harpers Ferry each year to immerse themselves in U.S. history. But four years ago, things were a lot quieter downtown with the COVID-19 pandemic spreading nationwide.

Between 2019 and 2020, visits to the park fell by more than 20 percent. Guided tours and bookshop sales fell, too.

“During the initial part of the pandemic, they said that being outside was actually a bad thing,” said Scot Faulkner, president of the Friends of Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. His group serves as a liaison between local residents and the national park.

“They literally blocked access to the trails. They blocked access to these open fields. They even hauled logs to block the parking areas,” he said.

“We experienced a decrease in visitation as travel restrictions and concerns about virus transmission led to reduced recreation activities and some closures,” Kristen Maxfield, an interpretation and education program manager at the park, wrote in an email to West Virginia Public Broadcasting.

Others involved in local tourism, too, said that making decisions during the pandemic was a balancing act.

One attraction that closed with the onset of the pandemic was the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) headquarters, located in Harpers Ferry.

Located in Harpers Ferry, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy serves as a headquarters for the Appalachian Trail, not too far from its midpoint.
Photo Credit: Jack Walker/West Virginia Public Broadcasting

The ATC asked thru-hikers to suspend their journeys in 2020. And, from March 2020 to May 2021, the conservancy closed its office in town, according to Dakota Jackson, ATC associate director of visitor services.

According to Jackson, officials worried that a large group of thru-hikers traveling north from Georgia could spread COVID-19 to communities along the trail.

But, ultimately, she said a lot of decision-making happened on the local level, because land managers help oversee portions of the trail.

“It wasn’t ATC closing the trail,” she said. “It really was like an overall decision in response to the pandemic and land managers over the course of 2020.”

In 2022, once most health restrictions were lifted, Jackson said thru-hiker turnout spiked.

But visits to the Harpers Ferry headquarters remain below pre-pandemic levels. Where the center used to bring in 30,000 visitors per year, it barely passed 19,000 in 2023.

Some saw the pandemic shutdown as a way to keep people safe. Others, like hotel owner Karan Townsend, recall its devastating effect on local business.

Townsend said she’s seen pretty consistent tourist turnout since she founded the hotel in 2007. But the pandemic was devastating, because she had to all but close her hotel in March 2020.

Karan Townsend owns and operates the Town’s Inn, a hotel and cafe located in downtown Harpers Ferry.
Photo Credit: Jack Walker/West Virginia Public Broadcasting

Things changed a few months later, because West Virginia rescinded some of its public health guidelines earlier than nearby states. Townsend said people began returning to her hotel shortly after this.

“Because we were allowed to open, people that were from nearby areas that were still closed down – actually, not just nearby, from all over the world – came here,” she said.

The upheaval Townsend’s business faced was not alone in Harpers Ferry. Faulkner said many tourist-centric businesses had to close up because of decreased visitors and revenue.

But, like Townsend, Faulkner said things improved gradually as the state reopened.

“As West Virginia began to reopen, being able to see the logs pulled away from the trail paths and being able to have the stores, especially the restaurants, reopen in the town … it began to have an uptick in terms of actual economic activity,” he said.

Today, visitors to the national park have bounced back to pre-pandemic levels. They have even surpassed previous heights.

Every year since 2020, the number of visitors to the park has grown. In 2023, more than 400,000 people visited the park.

That marks a growth of more than 100,000 visitors when compared to 2019.

According to Maxfield, the park is now back to its former self, with activities and tour opportunities restored.

“We are delighted to welcome visitors to experience Harpers Ferry National Historical Park for themselves,” she wrote. “There truly is something for people of all ages and interests here.”

Faulkner said that he and residents are also glad to see things back to normal. “We love this park, and [we’re] glad that more and more people are coming.”

The Gatlinburg Fire Of 2016, Inside Appalachia

This week on Inside Appalachia, a wildfire in 2016 escaped the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It killed 14 people, injured dozens more and destroyed parts of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. We talk with an investigative journalist who has new information on the incident. Also, four decades ago rice seeds from Laos crossed the ocean to California and made their way to a family of Hmong farmers in North Carolina. And the Appalachian trail has been exhaustively hiked, explored and written about, but it’s still got a few secrets left.

In 2016, a wildfire escaped the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It killed 14 people, injured dozens more and destroyed parts of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. We talk with an investigative journalist who has new information on the incident.

Also, four decades ago rice seeds from Laos crossed the ocean to California and made their way to a family of Hmong farmers in North Carolina.

And the Appalachian trail has been exhaustively hiked, explored and written about, but it’s still got a few secrets left.

You’ll hear these stories and more this week, Inside Appalachia.

In This Episode:


Investigating The Gatlinburg Fire Of 2016

In 2016, a wildfire at Chimney Tops in Great Smoky Mountains National Park in Tennessee spread beyond the park boundaries into the nearby tourist towns of Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. At least 14 people were killed. Many more were injured and thousands of residents and tourists had to be evacuated. 

A new investigation revealed that National Park Service officials underestimated the severity of the wildfire and were slow to alert Tennessee officials about the danger.

Tyler Whetstone, an investigative reporter, spoke with Mason Adams about his reporting.

The Sweet Sticky Rice Of Western North Carolina

Tou Lee holds sweet sticky rice stalks in his rice field in Morganton, North Carolina.

Credit: Rachel Moore/West Virginia Public Broadcasting

When you think of rice, you might not think of Western North Carolina. But the area is home to several varieties of heirloom rice that made their way here from Laos nearly five decades ago. The rice was carried and cultivated by Hmong refugees.

One family now sells their rice at markets and to restaurants, and they’ve built a passionate following.

Folkways Reporter Rachel Moore has this story.

Save The Salamanders!

The West Virginia spring salamander.

Credit: U.S. Geological Survey

Have you ever heard of a West Virginia spring salamander? They’re a species found in the General Davis Cave in Greenbrier County, West Virginia, but there are only a few hundred left. 

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service wants to put the West Virginia spring salamander on the endangered species list.

WVPB’s Curtis Tate spoke with Will Harlan, a senior scientist at the Center for Biological Diversity.

An Appalachian Trail Mystery

The Appalachian Trail was completed in 1927. For 25 years, hikers took to the trail and traveled along the mountains from Georgia to Maine, but then the trail was moved. And the old trail was nearly forgotten. 

Historian and podcaster Mills Kelly discovered the lost trail and wrote about it in his new book, Virginia’s Lost Appalachian Trail.

WMRA’s Chris Boros speaks to Kelly about rediscovering the trail. 

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Our theme music is by Matt Jackfert. Other music this week was provided by David Mayfield, Chris Knight, John Blissard, John Inghram, Eric Vincent Huey and Steve Earle.

Bill Lynch is our producer. Zander Aloi is our associate producer. Our executive producer is Eric Douglas. Kelley Libby is our editor. Our audio mixer is Patrick Stephens.

You can send us an email: InsideAppalachia@wvpublic.org.

You can find us on Instagram, Threads and Twitter @InAppalachia. Or here on Facebook.

Sign-up for the Inside Appalachia Newsletter!

Inside Appalachia is a production of West Virginia Public Broadcasting.

Steel Goes Up At Nitro Bridge; Harpers Ferry Detour About To Begin

Gov. Jim Justice gave updates Wednesday on two major highway projects in different parts of the state.

Gov. Jim Justice gave updates Wednesday on two major highway projects in different parts of the state.

The structural steel for the new Interstate 64 Nitro-St. Albans bridge is almost complete. 

Jason Foster, chief engineer of development at the West Virginia Department of Highways, said 2 million tons of steel would be lifted in place on Wednesday.

Next he said, concrete would be poured and asphalt laid to have the new bridge ready for traffic by next spring or summer. Another span opened last year.

“We’re just really excited about this project and the opportunity to have it completed and open to traffic,” Foster said.

In the Eastern Panhandle, U.S. 340 around Harpers Ferry will be closed for 90 days starting on Sept. 12. Contractors will work to stabilize rock formations in the area to improve safety.

“We will have the road reopened by Christmas for the region’s shopping season,” Foster said.

Foster said the Appalachian Trail would remain open through the area.

Information on the 22-mile detour is available at us340harpersferry.com.

Pepperoni Rolls, Ice Cream And The World’s Largest Teapot, Inside Appalachia

This week on Inside Appalachia, If you’re hungry for a pepperoni roll in West Virginia, you can find one at just about any gas station, but how did they get so popular? In Pennsylvania, the lure of one particular sweet treat gives hikers on the Appalachian Trail a break on their journey and a challenge that requires a strong stomach. We also “spill the tea” on a classic roadside attraction that’s been around for generations.

If you’re hungry for a pepperoni roll in West Virginia, you can find one at just about any gas station, but how did they get so popular? 

In Pennsylvania, the lure of one particular sweet treat gives hikers on the Appalachian Trail a break on their journey and a challenge that requires a strong stomach. 

We also “spill the tea” on a classic roadside attraction that’s been around for generations.

You’ll hear these stories and more this week, Inside Appalachia.

In This Episode:

  • The Riddle Of The Pepperoni Roll
  • A Half Gallon At The Halfway Point
  • Snorkeling In The Hills Of Appalachia
  • Spilling Some Tea About The World’s Largest Tea Pot

The Riddle Of The Pepperoni Roll

Trays of pepperoni rolls, ready for the lunch rush at Horace Mann Middle School in Charleston, West Virginia.

Credit: Zack Harold/West Virginia Public Broadcasting

Pepperoni rolls have been enshrined as part of West Virginia history through their connection to coal miners. They’re absolutely a favorite and available almost everywhere, but that wasn’t always true. How pepperoni rolls became a statewide convenience store staple might have less to do with coal mining and more to do with lunch ladies in Kanawha County.

Folkways Reporter Zack Harold takes a bite out of pepperoni roll lore.

A Half Gallon At The Halfway Point

Gardners, Pennsylvania is the halfway point on the Appalachian Trail. Though-hikers celebrate the milestone with something called the “half-gallon challenge.” Hungry (or not so hungry) hikers devour a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting.

WITF’s Rachel McDevitt takes us to the Pine Grove Furnace General Store, to meet some of the challengers.

Snorkeling In The Hills Of Appalachia

Many people love to get out into mountain rivers and streams to fish, swim or just cool off. Now, some communities in North Carolina are adding snorkeling to the list of activities.

BPR’s Lilly Knoepp has this story about a new snorkeling trail.

Spilling Some Tea About the World’s Largest Tea Pot

The World’s Largest Teapot in Chester, West Virginia.

Credit: Zander Aloi/West Virginia Public Broadcasting

Out on the roads of Appalachia, you never know what you’ll see. Fireworks and fruit stands, for sure, but every once in a while you’ll pass something that makes you say, “What was that?” 

Inside Appalachia Associate Producer Zander Aloi took a trip to Chester, West Virginia, to learn the story behind a souvenir stand known as the World’s Largest Teapot.

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Our theme music is by Matt Jackfert. Other music this week was provided by Jesse Milnes, Michael Hurley, the Kinks, Paul McCartney, Sierra Ferrel, Tyler Childers, Wizard Clipp, and David Mayfield. 

Bill Lynch is our producer. Zander Aloi is our associate producer. Our executive producer is Eric Douglas. Kelley Libby is our editor. Our audio mixer is Patrick Stephens.

You can send us an email: InsideAppalachia@wvpublic.org.

You can find us on Instagram, Threads and Twitter @InAppalachia. Or here on Facebook.

Sign-up for the Inside Appalachia Newsletter!

Inside Appalachia is a production of West Virginia Public Broadcasting.

Catching Up With W.Va.’s New School Superintendent And An Appalachian Trail Ice Cream Tradition, This West Virginia Morning

On this West Virginia Morning, Michele Blatt became the state superintendent of schools earlier this month following the retirement of David Roach in June. Chris Schulz caught up with the superintendent in Morgantown this week to discuss her new position.

On this West Virginia Morning, Michele Blatt became the state superintendent of schools earlier this month following the retirement of David Roach in June. She is the third person to hold the position in less than two years. Reporter Chris Schulz caught up with the superintendent at the INVEST Conference in Morgantown this week to discuss her new position.

Also, in this show, sharing a fun summer feature on Appalachian Trail thru-hikers stopping to eat a half gallon of ice cream in PA, a hallowed trail tradition. WITF’s Rachel McDevitt takes us to the midpoint for a trail tradition.

West Virginia Morning is a production of West Virginia Public Broadcasting which is solely responsible for its content.

Support for our news bureaus comes from Concord University and Shepherd University.

Caroline MacGregor is our assistant news director and produced this episode.

Teresa Wills is our host.

Listen to West Virginia Morning weekdays at 7:43 a.m. on WVPB Radio or subscribe to the podcast and never miss an episode. #WVMorning

How Jennifer Pharr Davis Found Herself On The Appalachian Trail

The Appalachian Trail is one of Appalachia’s best known features. And few people know the Appalachian Trail better than Jennifer Pharr Davis, a North Carolina native who’s through-hiked the A.T. three times.

This conversation originally aired in the April 2, 2023 episode of Inside Appalachia.

The Appalachian Trail is one of Appalachia’s best known features.

And few people know the Appalachian Trail better than Jennifer Pharr Davis, a North Carolina native who’s through-hiked the A.T. three times. 

In 2008, on her second through-hike, she set the record for the fastest Appalachian Trail hike by a woman. Three years later, she through-hiked it again — and this time set the record for the fastest known time on the Appalachian Trail by anyone up to that point. 

Davis continues to blaze new trails and serve as a celebrity in the world of outdoor recreation. She recently spoke with Inside Appalachia Host Mason Adams about some of her hikes — and how they shaped her identity as an Appalachian.

This interview has been edited for clarity and length.

Adams: You have through-hiked all over — the Appalachian Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail. How did you first get into hiking and these long distance hikes?

Davis: Without realizing it, I think the mountains were just always a part of me. I grew up in western North Carolina, and looking around, I always saw the mountains and the forest, and quite frankly, took it for granted. But then I started traveling. When I graduated college at 21, I faced this problem of really not knowing what to do with my life, where I was going to go, what I was going to do for work, who I really was. I just wanted time and a place to figure things out. Growing up in the southern Appalachians, I’d always heard of the Appalachian Trail. I had never set foot on it. I only spent two nights outdoors before, but I thought, “Hey, I know it’s a long trail. It usually takes five or six months to hike. Sounds like an adventure. Seems affordable.” I was 21. So I thought, “Well, hiking is technically just walking. How hard could it be?” And so I set off on my own from Georgia with the goal of walking all the way to Maine. After five months, I made it there, and I was a different person. I’ve never looked back after that. I’ve very much felt like a part of me belongs outdoors in the forest.

Courtesy Jennifer Pharr Davis

Adams: You’ve hiked the Appalachian Trail three times. What’s pulled you back to that particular through-hike?

Davis: The Appalachians have my heart. And there is some sense of roots and connection. In the United States especially, so many of us are looking for our roots and taking DNA tests and trying to find out, “Who am I? Where did I come from? What’s my heritage? What’s my culture?” At some point in my life, I just decided I was Appalachian. It’s like, “Well, I’m a mutt. But this is where I’m born. This is where I grew up. This is where I choose to live.” Hiking all over the world, you realize different places, different mountains — they all have different energies. The Appalachians to me are this wise, maternal wrinkled old grandmother or great grandmother, who was so welcoming and so wise and just wants to invite you in and share wisdom.

So when I’m on the Appalachian Trail, the beauty is in the details and the biodiversity, and the fact that the mountains are some of the oldest in the world, if not the oldest. That essence and spirit is there. Every time I go out there and hike, whether it’s the full Appalachian Trail or just taking my kids out, I think that is what I’m taking home with me though the wisdom and the nurturing spirit of Appalachia.

Adams: You mentioned how you took to the Appalachian Trail, partly to find yourself. And then you allude to a point in time in which you decided that you were Appalachian; that was part of your identity. Do you remember a pivotal moment that helped crystallize that thought for you along the way?

Davis: Yes. And it’s funny because I think so much of the transformation or growth or lessons on long distance trails happen over time. It’s not something that occurs in a moment. But I did have an experience when I was hiking over the ridges of Roan Mountain, which is on the border of North Carolina and Tennessee. It’s one of those places where you hike out on this grassy ridge, and you get 360-degree views. There I was at sunset, and I could see mountains all around me. The sky was changing color and the mountain was changing colors at the end of the day, and I was the only one up there. I could hear the birds and the flame azalea had started to bloom. It’s also a spruce fir mountain, so it smells like Christmas, even in the spring.

There I was in that moment, looking around, and it just hit me that I was a part of it. Like, I was a part of nature. I was a part of that scene. At first, that didn’t make sense to me because growing up, I thought nature was cool, beautiful — but it was out the window. I saw it as separate. And then here I was in this moment looking around. I was like, “Wait a minute. Biologically, I am a part of all this.” Then I thought about it through my spiritual lens. And I was like, “Yeah, I really think I’m a part of creation. I’m a part of nature.” When I accepted that truth, I was changed right away.

Adams: You’ve gone on to do more and more hikes, but I wanted to ask you about one other hike in particular, and that’s the Mountains-to-Sea hike. I understand not only did you hike the entire thing, but with an infant!

Davis: Behind the Appalachian Trail, the Mountains-to-Sea Trail is probably my favorite. It’s a 1,200-mile footpath that stretches across the state of North Carolina, from the Tennessee border to the Outer Banks. So the way logistically that worked, my husband would meet me at road crossings, and I was hiking morning to night. We would try to camp together or stay with friends off-trail. He was caring for the kids along the way during the day. But I was nursing my son before I started hiking in the morning.

I look back on that experience, and in a lot of ways, it was harder than the A.T. record. The A.T. record that we set gets a lot of attention. But in a lot of ways, I was more humbled and more challenged by trying to do the Mountains-To-Sea Trail with two young children — caring for them, trying to navigate the relationship with my husband — was extremely difficult for him as well.

——

Davis recently sold the business she founded in 2008, Blue Ridge Hiking Company, to its longtime manager. Davis will take more time to write and speak, and is pursuing a graduate degree to further her work.

Listen to the full interview on Inside Appalachia or click/tap the “Listen” button at the top of this story.

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