Funding from the Inflation Reduction Act is allowing for a significant expansion of federal support for small farmers.
Mary Oldman and Francisco Ramirez own and operate Mountain Harvest Farm just south of Morgantown.
Standing in front of a high tunnel full of kale and cherry tomatoes, Oldman said that key pieces of the farm have been made possible through Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) programs and funding. The NRCS is an agency of the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) that provides technical assistance to farmers and other private landowners and managers.
“This was an EQIP contract from the NRCS for this high tunnel and the micro irrigation inside,” she said. “That particular contract also helped us put in a main irrigation line from the road.”
Oldman said she believes the previous owner also used EQIP funds (Environmental Quality Incentives Program) from the NRCS to create a pond, install irrigation across the entire property and install French drains under some of the fields.
“That’s the main NRCS program we’ve been involved in and has really helped us a lot,” she said. “These high tunnels have been really crucial to our operation, you know, growing year round, but also becoming more profitable.”
The farm hosted Terry Crosby, chief of the NRCS, Tuesday morning to get a better understanding of the unique challenges facing Appalachian farmers. One issue he heard quite a lot about was deer pressure.
“I wouldn’t have a farm here without a fence in this area,” Ramirez said. “The first year we started, I worked so hard the whole summer. I remember it was October. We just needed a couple weeks, and the deer ate everything.”
Crosby said the NRCS doesn’t offer assistance for fence installation, but the trip is already making him consider policy changes.
“How do we make them more flexible so we can offer something, because for a vegetable person to be successful, you got to take the pressure off,” he said. “Especially if you’re going the organic route, you can’t have any pressure from pests.”
Crosby said many of the programs that Mountain Harvest Farm benefits from have existed for decades, but close to $20 billion in conservation funding from the Inflation Reduction Act is allowing for significant expansions. Most notably, the USDA is increasing the minimum annual payment for new and renewed Conservation Stewardship Program contracts aimed at improving the condition of land from $1,500 to $4,000 starting in fiscal year 2024.
“This is my 46th year at USDA, and we’ve never had an opportunity like this,” he said. “We have a lot of producers walking through the door. We meet them where they are on the land, and so what it has given us is an opportunity to serve more folks, and our agency is a service organization.”
Crosby said the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic and subsequent supply chain issues highlighted to him the importance of local food production, particularly in and near urban centers.
“In that 2021 era, folks just couldn’t find that fresh food and vegetable anywhere,” he said. “If you’re able to grow it on the farm, you’re able to walk out your back door, if you’re able to put it on your salad at night. Just think about what they would do to the health costs if we had everyone that would be able to have access to food like this.”
Agriculture isn’t necessarily what comes to mind when most people think of West Virginia. That never made sense to Jon Bourdon, state conservationist for the NRCS in West Virginia.
“West Virginia is diverse in all sorts of ways, but if you look at the state emblem, it’s a coal miner and a farmer,” Bourdon said. “I call it community scale agriculture, or West Virginia traditional agriculture, that traditional Appalachian farming that I think has some in some ways, has fallen asleep for a while as people went big. There is a coming back.”
Despite its location several miles outside of Morgantown, Mountain Harvest qualifies for NRCS urban farm programs. Bourdon said he believes mountain farming shares many challenges with urban farming.
“The same challenges that they have of getting assistance and that infrastructure and how to use that land is very similar to if you have mountains on both sides,” he said. “You’re in similar food deserts. It is urban as it falls under our policy, but we call it more community scale or small scale agriculture.”
With housing developments cropping up in the area, the urban label may make more sense in the coming years.
In Wythe County, Virginia, Charlie Burnett lives atop Periwinkle Mountain. “I just want you to see how steep it is,” Burnett says, as he slaps the reins on the hips of Jeb and Rose. “Get up, hup.” The two horses set off to mow a field with an incline of almost 55 degrees.
“My biggest field is four and six acres, and it’s mountain tops,” Burnett says. He grows oats, puts up hundreds of bales of hay, and hauls wood for fuel on the land that has sustained his Scots-Irish family for generations. “This was a farm that you grew a garden. Maybe you grew three acres of corn. That fed the cows that you milked every day,” Burnett says.
There was a time in Appalachia when almost every small family farm had a workhorse, but that changed with the advent of the tractor. Despite mechanization, a few farmers in southwest Virginia never let go of farming with a horse.
Today, more and more people are wanting to go back to that kind of farming. But finding a workhorse that’s like the workhorse of old isn’t easy. And finding someone to train the horse and driver isn’t easy either. Some folks in southwest Virginia are working to save both parts of this old way of farming.
Like Burnett. His family stuck with their horses for safety reasons—not wanting to risk rolling a tractor on land so steep. “We had a team, out of necessity here, not out of nostalgia—we still have to have a team of horses here on this mountainside.”
But the workhorses of Burnett’s youth are harder to come by these days. So, 15 years ago, he started breeding farm workhorses—like the old-style Belgian workhorse. He timed things well. When the pandemic raised concerns about food security, more people started to turn back to traditional farming practices.
Advantages Of Horse Power
In neighboring Grayson County, a friend of Burnett’s, lifelong farmer and regional folklife expert Danny Wingate, understands the reasons why people want to return to this old way of farming. He has always been an advocate for the advantages of horsepower.
“If you’re careful enough to use horses, you’re more concerned about what you’re growing and you’re more in tune to your soil conditions and fertility, and you’re paying more attention, so you grow better food,” Wingate says.
“Most of the time people’s wantin’ to go back to the land, they’re concerned about what they’re eating—where their food’s coming from, the supply of their food, how many chemicals are on what you’re eating,” Wingate says.
Horses don’t compact the soil like a tractor, and the practice of using well-composted horse manure reduces the need for chemical fertilizers, Wingate adds. That’s a soil fertility practice encouraged in the regenerative agriculture movement.
For a small-scale farm or homestead, workhorses also make economic sense. “If you’ve got 10 or 15 acres, why do you need a $60,000 tractor, and that’s not counting the implements that go with it,” Wingate says. And a horse reproduces itself, while a tractor doesn’t.
When it comes to harvesting vegetables, Wingate says horses are efficient partners. Pulling a sled, a team can be directed to keep pace with the workers gathering the produce. “You don’t have to get on and off the tractor or you don’t have to get in and out the pickup truck or wagon,” he says.
“When you’re out with a good team, it’s really peaceful and it’s productive, but it’s also good for you because everything’s quiet,” Wingate says. It’s good for the mind, he says.
The Challenge Of Finding An Old Style Farm Workhorse
The horses that are widely available today lack key traits of a quality farm workhorse. “They’ve almost let the old style horses die out—old style, like being thick bodied and good, quiet manners, and big boned and a slower, more docile kind of horse—easier to get along with, that don’t require as much feed,” Wingate says.
These traits got lost, he says, when many farm workhorses were crossbred to make more of a carriage horse or hitch horse. They became larger, taller, longer-legged, showy horses. And they could sell for much more than a farm workhorse.
“The Belgian horses and the Percherons are a totally different horse than they were even from when I was a teenager,” Wingate says.
And that’s why he was excited about the horses his friend Charlie Burnett on Periwinkle Mountain was breeding.
“Charlie’s trying to preserve a breed of farm horse,” Wingate says. “If you look back in the old Breeders Gazettes from the turn of the century, when they were importing them, the horses that were here then were just like what he’s raising now.”
Practical Considerations For A New Generation Of Workhorse
Back on Burnett’s farm, I had a chance to see first-hand why it was important for a farm horse to be short, sturdy and sweet-tempered. Burnett hands me a heavy leather harness collar and straps, with instructions to swing it over the back of his mare, Rose. She weighs close to 1800 pounds, but because she’s only 16 hands high, even I can harness her—although it took a practice swing or two.
Most of Burnett’s eight horses are about the size of Rose, and it’s a result of his breeding efforts over the last 15 years. In a paddock close to the barn, two broodmares are nursing their foals.
Nearby in a separate paddock, two two-year-old fillies, Roxy and Kate, are already trained to drive and haul light loads. Burnett points out their shorter height and stockiness. “This is what I remember seeing in the mountains when I was growing up and I seen them have workhorses.”
Burnett then strokes the neck of the blue roan broodmare named Gracie.
“Gracie here is just barely 16 hands high. She has huge legs, huge girth. Gracie will weigh about 1800 pounds. So she’s not a small horse when it comes to size but her height–she’s not tall.”
His hope is that her offspring will become the next generation of workhorses, particularly for those wanting to farm in the Appalachian mountains. He points out Gracie’s conformation: a block head and short neck, a short back, wide muscular hips, and stocky legs. “That translates into a lot of power,” Burnett says.
Gracie is an American Brabant breed. The ancestors of this breed came to America from the Brabant region of Belgium in the 1880s. In America they were typically just called Belgians, but in Europe, the Brabant birthplace was often indicated in the registry.
Their bloodlines were undoubtedly in some of the old Appalachian workhorses. But keeping track of bloodlines was difficult.
“There was crosses from all these horses because people weren’t concerned about registry,” Burnett says. “These people were concerned about having a horse big enough to do farm work with and to make a living with and not cost you a fortune to feed….they didn’t have no money.”
When Burnett started looking for this old style breed, he luckily found some American Brabants right here in Appalachia, and started breeding.
As we stand near the horses, Gracie’s colt, Jasper, blinks his long eyelashes. He pushes his soft muzzle against my microphone. “What I am really, really noticing—and it’s really what I like about them—is how docile and how friendly they seem to be,” Burnett says.
And that disposition is critical in making a workhorse your partner.
Passing Down The Art Of Making A Horse Your Partner
While finding an old-style workhorse is the first step of going back to the old way of farming, the other half is learning to become partners with some 1800 pounds of living, breathing horse power, and gaining their trust. Some call it a relationship craft, and both Burnett and Wingate picked it up as boys while working alongside horses with their grandparents and uncles. But Wingate says this training is not so easy to come by these days.
“You can watch everything on YouTube and learn and see how people do it. But until you do it hands-on, it’s a totally different thing,” Wingate says.
Wingate says that training the drivers is probably more important than teaching the horses.
“Really, what you need to do is go somewhere,” Wingate says, “where there’s
somebody that can show you for a while, like a little apprentice program.”
Wingate admired the teamster training schools, run by Amish communities in Ohio, and he visited there often. Even though some of these teachers have died, Wingate still had reason to be optimistic about traditional horse farming practices being passed on.
“One thing about most horse people, they’re really generous with their time and knowledge. Most older people, like me, they really want to see young people succeed. Most people are more than willing to share their knowledge because they see it getting gone.”
Picking Up The Reins To Grow Better Food
One person who was on the receiving end of Wingate’s knowledge is Charlie Lawson, who lives at the foot of Paint Lick Mountain in Tazewell County, Virginia. Lawson’s always been a horseman, and Wingate helped him find his first team of farm work horses.
“I’m learning about this regenerative agriculture,” Lawson says. “It’s basically relearning the secrets the ancient people had.” He says he’s tired of not knowing what’s in the food he’s eating, and doesn’t want to be dependent on diesel fuel to run a tractor.
On a warm day in early spring, I visited Lawson at his farm. He steps onto the seat of a horse drawn riding cultivator,ready to plant potatoes…some 1300 feet of potatoes. “We’re trying something we haven’t tried before,” Lawson says, “which is using a cultivator to open up a furrow.”
That was in the spring and when winter came, Lawson’s family enjoyed dozens of quarts of beets, corn, beans, tomatoes and potatoes—all grown with the help of horse power.
Tribute To Danny Wingate
It was Charlie Lawson who conveyed the sad news to me that Danny Wingate had died, just as I was finishing this story. Local news stations paid tribute to Danny’s iconic role in sustaining local folk arts.
For me, Danny Wingate had brought to life not just the utility, but the beauty of preserving the old ways of farming with horses, and I will remember that for a long time to come.
A few people still farm the way folks did before tractors. We visit with farmers who still rely on real workhorses to get their work done.
Also, Kentucky artist Lacy Hale’s “No Hate in My Holler” screenprint may never go out of style. Appalachians are still telling her how much they identify with its message.
And a Virginia poet reflects on the importance of spoons and what’s helped his writing.
Before the tractor, farmers in Appalachia relied on workhorses to plow fields and pull their wagons. In southwestern Virginia, the practice has mostly disappeared, often along with the farms themselves. But a few farmers never let go of farming with a horse.
Folkways reporter Connie Bailey Kitts had the story.
No Hate In My Holler
In Pound, Virginia, a mural depicts an old woman smoking a pipe and holding a baby wrapped in a big bright quilt. The mural honors midwife Nancy Mullins Shores and is part of a growing body of work by artist Lacy Hale. Her work also includes the viral image “No Hate in My Holler.” In 2022, Mason Adams spoke with Hale about her work, but also caught up with her recently.
Jim Minick And The Intimacy Of Spoons
Jim Minick made a career as a writing professor, teaching at colleges and universities in Georgia, South Carolina and southwestern Virginia, but he’s also the author or editor of eight books. His latest is a volume of poetry/collection of poems titled The Intimacy of Spoons.
Producer Bill Lynch spoke with Minick about Appalachian book festivals and writing about silverware.
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Our theme music is by Matt Jackfert. Other music this week was provided by Ed Snodderly, James Michael Stevens, Morgan Wade, John Blissard, Tim Bing, Sierra Ferrell and Kaia Kater.
Bill Lynch is our producer. Zander Aloi is our associate producer. Our executive producer is Eric Douglas. Kelley Libby is our editor. Our audio mixer is Patrick Stephens. We had help this week from folkways editor Chris Julin. You can find us on Instagram and Twitter @InAppalachia.
You can send us an email: InsideAppalachia@wvpublic.org.
Small food producers in Kentucky aired their disapproval during a virtual public hearing Monday for a proposed rule that could increase permitting fees for some producers by more than 1,000 percent. One Democratic state representative believes the proposed regulation could also clash with a bill signed by Gov. Andy Beshear this year to help local public health departments become more sustainable.
Many small food producers spoke at the hearing, saying the Kentucky Department for Public Health proposal would cripple their business, especially given the economic downturn caused by the pandemic. Seth Long runs a maple syrup operation in Letcher County and was one of those producers who spoke at the hearing.
“It would kill our ability to sell beyond this community where there’s money,” Long said. “There’s only so many dollars [in Letcher County]. There’s not much of a market here. Really to be successful is to sell away from here and bring that money back home.”
The Ohio Valley ReSource previously reported the proposed rule would impact producers operating through commercial kitchens that have permits to sell online, wholesale, or beyond state lines. The proposal would change the fee structure from assessing fees based on the square footage of a facility, to based on a tiered system that assesses fees based on the “risk level” of a particular commodity.
Inspection fees would range from $750 for low-risk commodities like grain or commetics, to $2,400 annually for high-risk products including peanut butter. For Long, that would mean the yearly fee to inspect the shack where he makes maple syrup would spike from $120 to $1,350.
“We ask the cabinet to reconsider its proposal and work with us, while at the same time asking them to rescind this regulation,” said Kentucky Agriculture Commissioner Ryan Quarles, who also spoke against the proposal at the hearing. “It’s hurtful to Kentucky Proud members and small businesses across the state.”
Quarles said more than 330 members of Kentucky Proud, a state program marketing state-made agricultural products, could be impacted by the proposal.
State Rep. Joe Graviss, a Democrat, also commented at the hearing that the proposal could clash with a bill he co-sponsored signed into law by Beshear. The bill primarily dealt with more equitable distribution of funding for local health departments, but Graviss said a particular section of the bill limits the administrative and operational costs for programs by the Cabinet for Health and Family Services. The costs of these programs can not increase by more than 25 percent through 2020 and not more than 5 percent in following years, according to the bill.
“I think the cabinet means well, and they’re trying to be proactive to do what they think is in the best interest of Kentucky and Kentuckians,” said Graviss. “They just missed it on this one.”
Cabinet for Health and Family Services spokesperson Susan Dunlap in a statement said the proposed increase is an effort to bring the state in line with Food and Drug Administration regulations and new state legislation. A spokesperson for the FDA said the agency generally conducts food safety inspections by risk level, but declined to comment on the state proposal.
Public comments can be submitted on the proposal through Aug. 31 to CHFSregs@ky.gov.